Semester in Review. OCTOBER

Peace Corps provides volunteers the opportunity to make their work their own and their experience what they will. I’ve had the opportunity to work in a lot of different areas already, English education, women empowerment, anti-human trafficking, business trainings for youth, and many local cultural events. October was full of festivities, parties, and opportunities to work on smaller projects…

The beginning of the month started with a conference for all the business and community development volunteers. I went out of curiosity and interest and found it very productive. Before the conference began, some volunteers got together for a cold and wet game of two-touch American football. It was a blast and a great start to what I found to be a productive conference. I learned about development opportunities for Moldova and what I can specifically bring to my community. The availability of resources for this country is incredible. Unfortunately corruption and a lack of accountability are preventing a lot of development from happening. I’m still trying to find my place in all of it.

Following the first weekend in October was Wine Fest. This is a giant celebration in the center of Chisinau where wineries from all over Moldova set up shop and give tastings to the thousands that gather for the event. The main street through the city is shut down for vendors to set up on both sides. Some are super posh with glass displays, fancy lights, delicate seating, and carpeted floors. Others are more laid back with grass roofs, dirty tables, and simple wooden chairs. But for the most part, people just wander from shop to shop and taste all the different wines that are available. My not-so-guilty go to was the hot spiced wine booth we found. It was a cold day and I was staying cozy with my down sweater on the outside and izvar (Romanian for hot spiced wine) on the inside.

There is a big stage set up where traditional dancers were performing in between what I can best describe as karaoke. Every Moldovan event has this karaoke type of entertainment. A series of singers get on stage with a microphone, a little number to sing along to some pre-recorded music with, and a modest two-step kind of dance to match their song. Lame. I know I’m supposed to be culturally sensitive as a PVC here, but seriously guys, can we switch it up a little? It was these moments that I avoided the stage and snuck around catching candid shots of all the bunice (grandmas) in their adorable matching headscarves. The one with the balloons is my favorite picture in Moldova to date.

The following weekend was a big celebration for the capital city. Every city or village in Moldova has a “city day”. They call it Hram, and it’s a big deal everywhere. Hram in Chisinau was bigger than Wine Fest. The city center (the same area they used for Wine Fest, and every other event the city hosts) was packed with people crowding around the stage to watch karaoke. I don’t get it. So again I avoided the stage and went instead with another Peace Corps volunteer to one of her friend’s booths. He happened to be a wine maker. His name is Igor, his company’s name is Et Cetera, and he makes some of the best wine I have tasted in Moldova. The house wine that everyone makes is fun, traditional, and good to take in shots with lunch or dinner. But this wine was real, bold, and sophisticated. I drank it out of a tall, shapely wine glass (as opposed to shot glasses) and savored every last dry, peppery drop of it.

  

My village’s Hram was at the end of October. In light of the celebration, my school has a week of events called Autumn days. Each homeroom class chooses a culture to represent and then spends the week preparing something about that culture to present at an assembly on Friday. They can do a dance, give a short presentation, or perform some sort of skit. Most classes also had some traditional food to share. One of my partner teacher’s classes decided to be Texas, and asked me to help them with their performance. I said “game on” and went straight for the most stereotypical representation I could think of. Western-wear and line dancing. I did some you tube searching and choreographed a dance. They asked Oxana and I to dance with them, so we did despite being the only teachers to participate. I forgot the steps to my own dance midway through, but the kids rocked it and the rest of the school loved it.

Hram for the rest of the village was filled with carnival rides, wrestling matches, a stage with karaoke entertainment, dancing, and fireworks. My family spent the week making the house spic and span in preparation for the celebration, and all of Saturday preparing food for guests that would come over for a big masa.

October for me was capped off with a Halloween party in the northern city of Balți. Two other PCV’s hosted the event and packed out their apartment with volunteers from all over the country. Everyone was in costume, but I took home the gold with my representation of Moldova’s iconic hero Stefan The Great. This costume also won me a first prize of twizlers at a party a couple days prior. They like to call me creative J.

Semester in Review. SEPTEMBER.

 It’s odd to be back in the swing of school after being out of the system for a two years. And it’s even more challenging to be on the teacher’s side of things. You hear that kids? School is the cake-walk part of life. The past semester has been a blur, and I regret I have not been better at posting or sharing the happenings of it as they have come. But here comes the overview...

SEPTEMBER. This was the beginning of a big learning experience for a bunch of Moldovan students in Ciorescu, Moldova and one hardheaded, stubborn Americanca. I spent the first few weeks in a whirlwind of names (they all have the same 10 to 20 names, but they have such distinct accents I feel doomed to always mispronounce them), disciplinary trials and errors, funny miscommunications, patient partner teachers, and cultural adaptations. I jumped in with both feet and arms wide open. Each week, I introduced something new to my students (and myself as well really).

           The first week, I introduced myself. They snickered at (but I think quite enjoyed) my attempts at speaking Romanian. I am in a continual learning process of how to best communicate with, encourage, and challenge them. I feel appreciated, and am quite fulfilled in the work I am able to do with my students. They like having a native English speaker to learn from, or in some cases a noob of a new teacher they can take advantage of.

The second week, I started an English club. Attendance continues to be anywhere from 12 to 20 students and I am always drawing from my own language learning experiences, youth group games played, and a handful of resources provided by Peace Corps. The club runs for an hour and a half, and my kids are always up for one more activity (this keeps me on my toes, but I work well on the fly). My favorite games so far have been telephone and telepictionary. On e game of telephone began with “The cat was so fat it could not move” and ended with “the cat”. Nice try kids. Telepictionary consists of a series of sentences written and pictures drawn and passed around a circle. The end results were similar to telephone with “the kat” bleh bleh.

One thing that students seem to lack in Moldova is critical thinking skills. Their system is set up to create direct input and output machines. So the ability fill in the blanks, ask questions for clarification, or think outside the box are often missing. However, they have all the potential in the world to gain these skills and I am already seeing progress in this direction.

The week after English Club began, I (with the help of my partner teacher) rallied and gathered 17 of our students to bus over to another village to take the FLEX test. FLEX is a student exchange program sponsored by the U.S. that gives high schoolers the opportunity to study in the States for a year. They are chosen not on academic standing (though they must have some basic English communication skills), but on their ability to display cultural adaptability and the desire to better themselves and the world around them through education. I was elated to be sitting on that bus with a bunch of excited high school students looking to big things for their futures.

 
While some of them were only there to miss a day of school, and only a few of them passed the basic English exam and still more were not moved on to the next round because they were caught cheating (cheating on an essay where they were asked to write about themselves mind you), I was still happy to have been a part of providing them with a new opportunity to improve their education.

            The final week in September, I introduced a business project to my students called the Diamond Challenge. This project gives students the opportunity to idealize, create, and present an idea for a business and then compete for a cash prize and trip to the states where they will present their project idea on an international level. It uses a new business model, called the lean canvas business model, rather than a business plan. The idea behind this lean canvas is to encourage entrepreneurs to test their products on customers before investing big bucks into a plan they have only idealized. I continue to learn just as much as I am teaching here. My mind is spinning with my own ideas as well as how I can be a part of other's success. My students came up with some fantastic ideas, but the execution seems to be the biggest challenge (makes sense). The models are due in January. It’s go time team!

On Teaching

No one every says “teaching is easy”, but most would agree that it is rewarding. I’m two months into teaching English as a foreign language to over 100 different high school students (and some 7^th graders) and I am convinced I will never know everything I need to know to be perfect at this job. I’m also confident in admitting that being an English instructor here is teaching me far more about life and about myself than I am able to give back in English instruction.

My biggest struggles are student motivation and combatting cheating. I have a bad habit of taking both personally.

Remembering student life, I can relate to finding more enjoyable things to do with my time than study. But now, in a career setting where I’m working for and responsible for more than myself, the value of reaping education’s benefits is very evident. I want to give everything I can to promote and encourage these kids, but I’m finding that process exhausting. My hardheaded, stubborn nature often serves me well, and I think its effects will eventually be of benefit in my work here… but I know it won’t be easy.

Similar to the U.S., Moldova has a standardized test for all graduating students to take before going on to University. 90% of students typically pass this test and move on to higher education. Last year, Moldova implemented a strict “no cheating” policy during the test. They used video cameras and increased the number of test monitors. Students caught cheating were removed and required to wait until the following year to complete the test. Only 60% of the students passed.

They get real creative in their cheating practices, and parents often help. In school, parents will use bribery or sometimes threats to increase their child’s grades. During the exams, they will give answers via Bluetooth (somehow, the exam always shows up online half an hour after it begins). I’ve even heard rumors of students writing questions on pieces of paper, throwing them out an open window, a recipient fining the answer and then throwing the paper back into the testing room. It’s ridiculous. During quizzes and tests in class, I stand up front evil eying all the kids to try and put an end to it, and I still find cheaters. They use their winiest voices to complain that they were just asking another student for clarification on a question or just asking to borrow the whiteout (they’re all about the whiteout here. Just use a pencil!). Their wondering eyes pointed directly at their neighbor’s paper just happen to be their best thinking stance (go figure). Sometimes students will hold their papers up, broadcasting their answers to fellow students behind them, and excuse it as “a new angle” to look at the test (they’re very communal in their cheating practices). They use their books and cell phones when they think you’re not looking, and they take every opportunity you’re helping an individual student with an answer to share information with each other. It’s an educational circus.

            Change is slow. Yet even with an extreme crack-down on cheating, the concept of academic integrity is far from being understood... or at least practiced. One day after a battle with cheating students during a quiz, I asked all the students to stand up.

“Sit down if you think it’s appropriate to cheat during a quiz”. Two snarky girls sit down and glare at me in contempt.

“Sit down if you think it’s acceptable to “help” one another during a quiz or a test”. All but two students sat down.

My heart sank.

“Fail. Have fun taking the BAC exam twice. Now let’s get to work.”

            I was initially worried about teaching because I didn’t think I would like working with the youth. I was wrong, I love working with them. But I hate being their disciplinarian. I feel so small swimming in this system of corruption as a volunteer just trying to help where I can. The egoist in me says I should be doing more, but frustrations and mistakes humble mek.

Teachers Baptism

Following the first bell, the teachers had their own celebration for the beginning of the school year. They had house wine and cognac, lots of meat and placinta (it’s just a type of pastry) a plenty. One big teacher masa. They’re all about the masas here and I love it. This is kind of how it went…

-Larissa, eat this. Take more. Red or white. Take a shot for Maria’s new nephew. (Maria) Take a shot for my nephew. Eat more food. We just grilled more meat. There’s more red wine…-

When we were all finished (more or less) eating, I helped to gather all the teachers for a picture. After the photo op, they proceeded to have a “teachers baptism” which apparently they do every year for all the new teachers. I was the only new teacher. I don’t know how common this tradition is across the whole country, but I appreciated it none-the-less. I felt welcomed and a part of their school community. This is kind of how it went…

-Wait here. Run through this hand tunnel. Bend over. Don’t bend over. O.K. bend over. Money thrown in a bowl of water. Freshly cut branch dipped in water. Speech. Splish. Splash. Applause.-

But why read about it when you can watch the whole thing?! Thanks to my partner teacher Oxana for filming the it all.

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Fist Bell

School began on September 2, and it was quite the show. I showed up looking like Sailor Moon with a conservative, khaki pleated skirt, white blouse, navy blazer and my fall boots (it was a chilly day), whilst all my soon to be students all looked so fly. I still can't get over all the little boys in their three piece suits and shiny shoes. The little girls all wore white stockings, big bows and pleated skirts. I fit right in with mine.

The tradition all across Moldova, and I quite like it, is to have the oldest students welcome the newest students into the school. It's quite the spectacle, and I'm happy to have captured it on video for your viewing pleasure. The 12th graders parade all the little 1st graders around for the onlookers, listen to some speeches and then walk the youngins to their classes.

In addition to the parade, the Mayor, local Eastern Orthodox Priest, School Director, some 11th grade students, and a couple other guests spoke. There was a karaoke rendition (as per norm at any event here) of a Romanian song and some DJ jams thrown down.

After the "first bell" was rang, the students all went to their home room class where they had an hour of an introductory lessons on Moldovan traditions. See ya tomorrow kids.



What followed next... was the teachers celebration.

The Baptists

My first weekend in Ciorescu, I was helping Lilia (mama gaza mea) in the garden and mentioned that I wanted to go to the Baptist church in town. She grabbed the phone and called the neighbor. Then, we walked to the edge of the yard, I met the neighbor, and we made plans for church the following morning (Lilia translated it all to me that is).  Sunday morning, I was eating breakfast after giving myself the time to make something savory when Lilia told me I was supposed to meet up with Lidia (neighbor) half an hour earlier than we had discussed. I sucked down what was remaining of my eggs and toast and rushed to get ready. We met on the corner and walked to the bus stop together. She asked me questions that I didn’t understand and I asked her questions that she didn’t understand. Goodness I need more practice in this language I thought. Thirty minutes into the service, when another member was translating the half Russian half Romanian service into full Russian for her, I realized she only spoke Russian. They call this amalgamation of language “Moldavian”… sometimes I feel like I’m learning three languages all at once.

During the worship part of the service, I sung along as I looked over the shoulder of the woman next to me. She sounded like a mix between the dying rooster outside my bedroom window and an opera singer that specializes in trills (I’ve included a music clip for my readers enjoyment- follow this link https://soundcloud.com/larissa-glover/church-singing).  I didn’t sound any better. When she stopped singing to take a breath or correct her place in the hymnal, everyone stopped with her. In light of all the worship “shows” I’ve witnessed and been a part of in the States, I really appreciated the simplicity and rawness of this group just singing praise together.

After the service, the trill specialist (also my personal translator, she spoke Russian, Romanian, English and some German) told the congregation I was working in the health clinic in town and would be a member of their service. Yikes! I was just visiting. I corrected her (we had just talked about my being an English teacher at the school in town) and politely said I was only visiting but really appreciated them letting me be a part of their congregation that day. The whole experience was a good one, but one I’m anxious to repeat for fear of being committed to the church against my will.

Official

The last couple weeks have been big weeks. I attended an event celebrating Peace Corps past 20 years in the country. If I wasn't encouraged to be a part of this before, I am now. The first American Ambassador as well at PC's first country director were in attendance. I swore in as an official volunteer, did a dance, sang a song and then moved to my permanent site. My Costesti host family was in attendance as well as my host family for the next two years and my school's director. I felt like the kid with the huge extended family that goes to all the events I'm a part of. It was awesome.

Justine Murray (first Country Director in Moldova), Me, Janet Utecht (current Country Director in Moldova)

Proof that I finished Pre-Service Training. Thank God that's over!

Some of the most wonderful people I have met here. Elena and Mihai Borta were my host parents during Pre-Service training. They fattened me up with good food and lots of red house wine. They encouraged me with their high spirits and hard working resilience. They supported me through rough days and took care of me like my own family would.